Southeast Iowa is home to a powerful blend of industrial history, natural beauty, and cultural significance. A route from Ottumwa to the historic ghost town of Buxton offers a window into the state’s coal-powered past and the people who shaped it.
Ottumwa – The Gateway
Known as “Bridge City,” Ottumwa sits along the Des Moines River and has long battled seasonal flooding. A walking trail along the city’s levee highlights this history, including a marker honoring the flood-prone neighborhoods of Central Addition and the Blackhawk Area. Just north of town, travelers encounter the Ottumwa Generating Station, a 725.9-megawatt coal-fired plant. Its future is in flux, with Alliant Energy pledging to retire coal power by 2040 as part of a larger clean energy transition.
Chillicothe and the Rural Corridor
Following the Des Moines River upstream leads through Chillicothe, a town of fewer than 100 people. It is the burial place of Curtis King, believed to be the oldest man to serve in the Civil War. Just beyond, rural roads trace past farmland, bluffs, and unexpected scenes—like an abandoned house recently occupied by a pig, cow, and chicken, puzzling local farmers.
Eddyville – From Utilities to Agriculture
Further up the river lies Eddyville, dominated by the massive Cargill corn milling facility. Operating since 1985, the site processes over 275,000 bushels of corn daily and includes a 40-megawatt coal-fired power plant. It stands as a modern link between Iowa’s agricultural strength and industrial energy needs.
Across the river, Eddyville also honors Chief Hard Fish, a Sauk leader from the 1830s. A riverbank marker and canoe access site recognize his nearby village.
Buxton – Iowa’s Hidden Legacy
South of Eddyville in Monroe County lies the historic site of Buxton, a once-thriving coal town founded in 1873 by the Consolidation Coal Company. Unique for its time, Buxton became a predominantly African-American community with integrated neighborhoods, Black professionals, and a strong local economy. At its peak in 1905, Buxton had nearly 5,000 residents.
Today, only foundations, a partial warehouse, and a cemetery remain. The site is accessible but remote, managed by the Monroe County Historical Society. Despite its physical decline, Buxton stands as a symbol of racial progress and industrial resilience in Iowa’s past.
